Lord, these burgers were good

by Julie Alpine-Crabtree

Photo by Paul Winch-Furness







It was the first time I had been moved to stroke a burger bun. But this was no ordinary burger bun: this was a double-egg-glazed milk bun based on a bridge roll recipe. Would that my hair were as glossy.

The occasion: last night’s pop-up Burger Monday, brainwave of food critic and author Daniel Young (pictured above). The location, Andrew’s Restaurant, Grays Inn Road, with Henry Harris of Racine in the kitchen. Greasy spoon meets choucroute vraiment a l’ancienne to start followed by a hand-pressed veal hamburger made from Dutch farm assured rib cap, forequarter “and those great little bits between the ribs”. And then there was the Knightsbridge egg cream…

This was Class A comfort food. The perfect thing for sleep-deprived parents, as was the company. My chef and I were lucky enough to be seated next to Sarah and Mike, who were friendly, funny and wise, and somehow able to convince me, in the space of one good bottle of red – and, I hasten to add, without trying to convince anyone of anything – that I should start attending church.

Was there something in that Racine relish I don’t know about?

Heaven on a plate